Anti-aging agents

ABSTRACT

A process for protecting human skin or hair against the harmful effects of ageing and environmental toxins involving contacting the skin or hair with a composition containing a  Vaccinium  plant extract.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates generally to the cosmetics field and, moreparticularly, to new preparations against the effects of ageing andenvironmental toxins on the skin and hair that are distinguished by aneffective content of vaccinium extracts and to the use of the extractsagainst a number of effects which damage the skin and hair.

PRIOR ART

The desire for eternal youth and beauty existed even in ancient times.Whereas legend has it that Cleopatra regularly bathed in asses'milk—today we know about the effect of the proteins present in suchmilk—less well-off ladies had to hope that their wish would be heard bythe gods. It has to be assumed that this was only rarely crowned withsuccess. Nowadays, a youthful appearance and a skin virtually free fromwrinkles is not the privilege of just a few, but is basically availableto all women despite the occasionally considerable differences in theprice of the preparations. Even if cosmetic chemistry cannot workmiracles, knowledge of the biochemical processes in the cells of skinand hair has increased enormously in recent years. As a result, thereare of course theories as to how damage caused by natural ageing orenvironmental influences can be prevented or eliminated. However, thedemands that female (and increasingly male) consumers expect suchanti-ageing preparations to sastisfy have also increased. Quite apartfrom the fact that, basically, the preparations are expected to have a“caring” character and to show optimal compatibility with the skin and,optionally, the mucosa, they are required to provide protection againstUV radiation and environmental toxins, to stimulate the immune systemand to have anti-inflammatory activity.

In this connection, reference is made, for example to German patentapplication DE 3027933 A1 (Inverni Della Beffa) which describespharmaceutical preparations for topical application to the skin whichcontain vaccinium extracts with a high content of anthocyanosides astheir active ingredient. These preparations stimulate the circulationand are used for healing wounds. European patent application EP 0 953353 A1 (Laboratoires Pharmascience) describes the use of vacciniumextracts as anti-urease agents. International patent application WO01/45648 (L'Oréal) relates to the use of plants of the genus Vacciniumfor reducing or inhibiting the glycation of proteins in the skin orrelated structures. International patent application WO 99/55352 (Avon)proposes skin-whitening preparations which contain a synergisticcombination of extract of licorice root and an antioxidant, for examplevaccinium extract. Decorative cosmetics containing vaccinium extractsand oil components are proposed in International patent application WO01/45662 (Laboratoires Seriobiologiques). French patent FR 2659556 B1(Mu Lab Eurl) describes preparations containing extracts of blueberriesand arnica. French patent FR 2612775 B1 (Thorel) reports on skintreatment preparations which, besides vitamin A, contain sources forsulfur, manganese and magnesium. These preparations preferably containblueberry extracts and ascorbic acid. Finally, International patentapplication WO 96/30033 discloses vaccinium extracts in suitableformulations, for example tablets or capsules, which are used, forexample, for cleaning surgical instruments.

Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was toprovide new anti-ageing preparations containing an active ingredientthat would satisfy the complex requirement profile described above. Inaddition, with the BSE debate in mind, this “multifunction component”would be a vegetable product.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to anti-ageing preparations which arecharacterized in that they have an effective content of plant extractsof the genus Vaccinium.

It has surprisingly been found that plant extracts of the genusVaccinium protect the skin and hair against attack by free radicals.Their anti-oxidative effect is distinctly superior to that of tocopheroland butyl hydroxytoluene and comparable with that of vitamin C. Theextracts are also active against UV-A and UV-B radiation and, inparticular, reduce the release of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs),lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) and prostaglandins. They also haveanti-inflammatory activity because they reduce the release of proteases,especially collagenases, and lessen the respiratory burst of humangranulocytes without damaging them. The extracts stimulate the immunesystem of the skin, the growth and regeneration of fibroblasts and thesynthesis of glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G6PD). Finally, theyalso promote the lipolysis of fats in the skin.

Accordingly, the present invention also relates to the use of plantextracts of the genus Vaccinium as agents for protecting the skin andhair against ageing and environmental influences in which they may bepresent in quantities of 0.001 to 1% by weight and preferably 0.005 to0.01% by weight, based on the content of active substances.

Vaccinium Extracts

To botanists, the genus Vaccinium is a group of around 450 species ofwhich Vaccinium myrtyllus, the bilberry or blueberry, is the mostimportant. Other known species include Vaccinium angustifollium,Vaccinium arboreum, Vaccinium arctostaphylos, Vaccinium caespitosum,Vaccinium corymbosum, Vaccinium hirsutum, Vaccinium macrocarpum,Vaccinium ovatum, Vaccinium oxycoccus, Vaccinium stamineum, Vacciniumuliginosum and Vaccinium vitis idaea. The vaccinium extracts contain asactive ingredients a mixture of at least 15 different anthocyanosidessuch as, for example, the following:

In general, the vaccinium extracts contain 20 to 25% by weight ofanthocyanosides, 5 to 10% by weight of tannins and small quantities ofvarious alkaloids (for example myrtin and epimyrtin), phenolic acids andglycosides containing quercitrin, isoquercitrin and hyperoside.

Extraction

The extracts may be prepared by methods known per se, i.e. for exampleby aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic extraction of the plants orparts thereof. Particulars of suitable conventional extractionprocesses, such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, agitationmaceration, vortex extraction, ultrasonic extraction, countercurrentextraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction underreduced pressure), diacolation and solid/liquid extraction undercontinuous reflux in a Soxhlet extractor, which are familiar to theexpert and which may all be used in principle, can be found, forexample, in Hagers Handbuch der pharmazeutischen Praxis (5th Edition,Vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New York1991). Percolation is advantageous for industrial use. Fresh plants orparts thereof are suitable as the starting material although driedplants and/or plant parts which may be mechanically size-reduced beforeextraction are normally used. Any size reduction methods known to theexpert, for example freeze grinding, may be used. Preferred solvents forthe extraction process are organic solvents, water (preferably hot waterwith a temperature above 80° C. and more particularly above 95° C.) ormixtures of organic solvents and water, more particularly low molecularweight alcohols with more or less high water contents. Extraction withmethanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycols,polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate and mixtures and water-containingmixtures thereof thereof is particularly preferred. The extractionprocess is generally carried out at 20 to 100° C., preferably at 30 to90° C. and more particularly at 60 to 80° C. In one preferredembodiment, the extraction process is carried out in an inert gasatmosphere to avoid oxidation of the ingredients of the extract. This isparticularly important where extraction is carried out at temperaturesabove 40° C. The extraction times are selected by the expert independence upon the starting material, the extraction process, theextraction temperature and the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc.After the extraction process, the crude extracts obtained may optionallybe subjected to other typical steps, such as for example purification,concentration and/or decoloration. If desired, the extracts thusprepared may be subjected, for example, to the selective removal ofindividual unwanted ingredients. The extraction process may be carriedout to any degree, but is usually continued to exhaustion. Typicalyields (=extract dry matter, based on the quantity of raw material used)in the extraction of dried leaves are in the range from 3 to 15 and moreparticularly 6 to 10% by weight. The present invention includes theobservation that the extraction conditions and the yields of the finalextracts may be selected according to the desired application. Theseextracts, which generally have active substance contents (=solidscontents) of 0.5 to 10% by weight), may be used as such, although thesolvent may also be completely removed by drying, more particularly byspray or freeze drying, a deep red colored solid remaining behind. Theextracts may also be used as starting materials for producing the pureactive substances mentioned above unless they can be synthesized by amore simple and inexpensive method. Accordingly, the active substancecontent in the extracts may be from 5 to 100% by weight and ispreferably from 50 to 95% by weight. The extracts themselves may bepresent as water-containing preparations and/or as preparationsdissolved in organic solvents and as spray-dried or freeze-driedwater-free solids. Suitable organic solvents in this connection are, forexample, aliphatic alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms (for exampleethanol), ketones (for example acetone), halogenated hydrocarbons (forexample chloroform or methylene chloride), lower esters or polyols (forexample glycerol or glycols).

Anti-Ageing Preparations

The preparations according to the invention are normally formulated ascreams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions,emulsions, wax/fat compounds, stick preparations, powders or ointments.These preparations may also contain mild surfactants, oil components,emulsifiers, pearlizing waxes, consistency factors, thickeners,superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats,waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV protection factors,antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, filmformers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanning agents,tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers,perservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like as further auxiliariesand additives.

Surfactants

Suitable surfactants are anionic, nonionic, cationic and/or amphotericor zwitterionic surfactants which may be present in the preparations inquantities of normally about 1 to 70% by weight, preferably 5 to 50% byweight and more preferably 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples ofanionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates,alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerolether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkylsulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fattyacid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether)sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates,sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and saltsthereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acidtaurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyltartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucosidesulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-basedvegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionicsurfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have aconventional homolog distribution although they preferably have anarrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionicsurfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycolethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycolethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixedethers and mixed formals, optionally partly oxidized alk(en)yloligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid-N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolyzates (particularly wheat-based vegetableproducts), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters,polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants containpolyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homologdistribution, although they preferably have a narrow-range homologdistribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternaryammonium compounds, for example dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride,and esterquats, more particularly quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamineester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactantsare alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates,aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Thesurfactants mentioned are all known compounds. Information on theirstructure and production can be found in relevant synoptic works, cf.for example J. Falbe (ed.), “Surfactants in Consumer Products”, SpringerVerlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 to 124 or J. Falbe (ed.), “Katalysatoren,Tenside und Mineralöladditive (Catalysts, Surfactants and Mineral OilAdditives)”, Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pages 123-217. Typicalexamples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularlydermatologically compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycolether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or dialkylsulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fattyacid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides,alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and/or protein fatty acid condensates,preferably based on wheat proteins.

Oil Components

Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based onfatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms,esters of linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C₆₋₂₂ fattyalcohols or esters of branched C₃₋₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear orbranched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate,myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyloleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetylpalmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetylbehenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearylstearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearylerucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearylstearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearylbehenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleylstearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleylerucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenylisostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucylmyristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyloleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters oflinear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly2-ethyl hexanol, esters of C₁₈₋₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids withlinear or branched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols (cf. DE 197 56 377 A1), moreespecially Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acidswith polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol ortrimer triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C₆₋₁₀fatty acids, liquid mono-, di- and triglyceride mixtures based on C₆₋₁₈fatty acids, esters of C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols witharomatic carboxylic acids, more particularly benzoic acid, esters ofC₂₋₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols containing 1to 22 carbon atoms or polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substitutedcyclohexanes, linear and branched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, suchas Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol® CC) for example, Guerbet carbonatesbased on C₆₋₁₈ and preferably C₈₋₁₀ fatty alcohols, esters of benzoicacid with linear and/or branched C₆₋₂₂ alcohols (for example Finsolv®TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkyl etherscontaining 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as DicaprylylEther (Cetiol® OE) for example, ring opening products of epoxidizedfatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicone, siliconmethicone types, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons suchas, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes.

Emulsifiers

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from atleast one of the following groups:

-   -   products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0        to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C₈₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, onto        C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acids, onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon        atoms in the alkyl group and onto alkylamines containing 8 to 22        carbon atoms in the alkyl group;    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22 carbon        atoms in the alk(en)yl group and ethoxylated analogs thereof;    -   addition products of 1 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil        and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil        and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   partial esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan with unsaturated,        linear or saturated, branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22        carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18        carbon atoms and addition products thereof onto 1 to 30 mol        ethylene oxide;    -   partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of        self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight        400 to 5,000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar        alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example        methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and        polyglucosides (for example cellulose) with saturated and/or        unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22        carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18        carbon atoms and addition products thereof onto 1 to 30 mol        ethylene oxide;    -   mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and        fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and/or mixed esters of        fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and        polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,    -   mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or        tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof,    -   wool wax alcohols,    -   polysiloxane/polyalkyl/polyether copolymers and corresponding        derivatives,    -   block copolymers, for example Polyethyleneglycol-30        Dipolyhydroxystearate;    -   polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) of        Goodrich;    -   polyalkylene glycols and    -   glycerol carbonate.

Ethylene Oxide Addition Products

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ontofatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or onto castor oil are knowncommercially available products. They are homolog mixtures of which theaverage degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between thequantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate withwhich the addition reaction is carried out. C_(12/18) fatty acidmonoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide ontoglycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formulationsfrom DE 2024051 PS.

Alkyl and/or Alkenyl Oligoglycosides

Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their production and their use areknown from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reactingglucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols containing 8 to 18carbon atoms. So far as the glycoside unit is concerned, bothmonoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar unit is attached to the fattyalcohol by a glycoside bond and oligomeric glycosides with a degree ofoligomerization of preferably up to about 8 are suitable. The degree ofoligomerization is a statistical mean value on which the homologdistribution typical of such technical products is based.

Partial Glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acidmonoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acidmonoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride,oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic aciddiglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride,linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acidmonoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride,tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric aciddiglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride andtechnical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities oftriglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partial glyceridesmentioned are also suitable.

Sorbitan Esters

Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitansesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate,sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitantrioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitandierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitansesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate,sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitandihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate,sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate,sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate,sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof.Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxideonto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Polyglycerol Esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate(Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34),Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate(Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450),Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate(Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane®NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and PolyglycerylPolyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate andmixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-,di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauricacid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid,oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30mol ethylene oxide.

Anionic Emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids containing 12 to22 carbon atoms such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid orbehenic acid and dicarboxylic acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atomssuch as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

Amphoteric and Cationic Emulsifiers

Other suitable emulsifiers are zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionicsurfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least onequaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonategroup in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactantsare the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammoniumglycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for examplecocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivativeknown under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularlypreferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers.Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in additionto a C_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino groupand at least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group in the molecule and which arecapable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholyticsurfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids,N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acidscontaining around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularlypreferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C_(12/18) acyl sarcosine.Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers, those ofthe esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acidtriethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and Waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. solid or liquid, vegetableor animal products which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters ofhigher fatty acids. Suitable waxes are inter alia natural waxes such as,for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax,cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax,montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax),uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffinwaxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as,for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxesand synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes andpolyethylene glycol waxes. Besides the fats, other suitable additivesare fat-like substances, such as lecithins and phospholipids. Lecithinsare known among experts as glycerophospholipids which are formed fromfatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification.Accordingly, lecithins are also frequently referred to by experts asphosphatidyl cholines (PCs). Examples of natural lecithins are thekephalins which are also known as phosphatidic acids and which arederivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. By contrast,phospholipids are generally understood to be mono- and preferablydiesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerophosphates) which arenormally classed as fats. Sphingosines and sphingolipids are alsosuitable.

Pearlizing Waxes

Suitable pearlizing waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters,especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides,especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especiallystearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionallyhydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fattycompounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fattyaldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all atleast 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fattyacids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ringopening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atomswith fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyolscontaining 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixturesthereof.

Consistency Factors and Thickeners

The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfattyalcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms andalso partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. Acombination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fattyacid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerolpoly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used. Suitable thickeners are,for example, Aerosil® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, moreespecially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses,carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively highmolecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fattyacids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® and Pemulen types[Goodrich]; Synthalens® [Sigma]; Keltrol types [Kelco]; Sepigel types[Seppic]; Salcare types [Allied Colloids]), polyacrylamides, polymers,polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Other consistency factorswhich have proved to be particularly effective are bentonites, forexample Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox) which is a mixture ofcyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite and propylene carbonate.Other suitable consistency factors are surfactants such as, for example,ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols,for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fattyalcohol ethoxylates or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes, such assodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Superfatting Agents

Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, forexample, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylatedlanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters,monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acidalkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.

Stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminiumand/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloseobtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides,quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, forexample, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols andamines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example,Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grünau),quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic siliconepolymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acidand dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®,Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammoniumchloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides as described,for example, in FR 2252840 A and crosslinked water-soluble polymersthereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternizedchitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution, condensationproducts of dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, withbis-dialkylamines, for example bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationicguar gum such as, for example, Jaguar®CBS, Jaguar®C-17, Jaguar®C-16 ofCelanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example,Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 of Miranol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are,for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butylmaleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleicanhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked andpolyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammoniumchloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methylmethacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinylacetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatizedcellulose ethers and silicones. Other suitable polymers and thickenerscan be found in Cosm. Toil., 108, 95 (1993).

Silicone Compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes,methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/oralkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid andresin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds aresimethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chainlength of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Toddet al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV Protection Factors and Antioxidants

UV protection factors in the context of the invention are, for example,organic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline atroom temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultravioletradiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form oflonger-wave radiation, for example heat. UV-B filters can be oil-solubleor water-soluble. The following are examples of oil-soluble substances:

-   -   3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and        derivatives thereof, for example 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor        as described in EP 0693471 B1;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester,        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid amyl ester;    -   esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic        acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester,        4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic        acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);    -   esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl        ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid        homomenthyl ester;    -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;    -   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic        acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;    -   triazine derivatives such as, for example,        2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine        and Octyl Triazone as described in EP 0818450 Alor Dioctyl        Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);    -   propane-1,3-diones such as, for example,        1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione;    -   ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives as described in EP        0694521 B1.

Suitable water-soluble substances are

-   -   2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline        earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and        glucammonium salts thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts        thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for        example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulfonic acid and        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)-sulfonic acid and salts        thereof.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methanesuch as, for example,1-(4′-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione,4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol® 1789) or1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and the enaminecompounds described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filtersmay of course also be used in the form of mixtures. Particularlyfavorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane,for example 4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester (Octocrylene) incombination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamicacid-2-ethyl hexyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl esterand/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Combinations such as theseare advantageously combined with water-soluble filters such as, forexample, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal,alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium andglucammonium salts thereof.

Besides the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light-blockingpigments, i.e. finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, may also be usedfor this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular,zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, zirconiumoxide, silicon, manganese, aluminium and cerium and mixtures thereof.Silicates (talcum), barium sulfate and zinc stearate may be used assalts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments forskin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. Theparticles should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferablybetween 5 and 50 nm and more preferably between 15 and 30 nm. They maybe spherical in shape although ellipsoidal particles or othernon-spherical particles may also be used. The pigments may also besurface-treated, i.e. hydrophilicized or hydrophobicized. Typicalexamples are coated titanium dioxides, for example Titandioxid T 805(Degussa) and Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coatingmaterials are, above all, silicones and, among these, especiallytrialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. So-called micro- or nanopigmentsare preferably used in sun protection products. Micronized zinc oxide ispreferably used. Other suitable UV filters can be found in P. Finkel'sreview in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and in Parf. Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).

Besides the two groups of primary sun protection factors mentionedabove, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may alsobe used. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant typeinterrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UVrays penetrate into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (forexample glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivativesthereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof,peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine andderivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (forexample α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof,chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivativesthereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose,propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine,glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl,methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and their salts,dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionicacid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids,nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (forexample butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninesulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very smallcompatible dosages (for example pmole to μmole/kg), also (metal)chelators (for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid,lactoferrine), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid,malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin,biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acidsand derivatives thereof (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid,oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone andubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof(for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate),vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoateof benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid andderivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof,Superoxid-Dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO,ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example seleniummethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbeneoxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substancessuitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers,sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

Biogenic Agents

In the context of the invention, biogenic agents are, for example,tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid,(deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products thereof, β-glucans,retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, aminoacids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, forexample prune extract, bambara nut extract, and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and Germ Inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odorsare formed through the action of skin bacteria on apocrine perspirationwhich results in the formation of unpleasant-smelling degradationproducts. Accordingly, deodorants contain active principles which act asgerm inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

Germ Inhibitors

Basically, suitable germ inhibitors are any substances which act againstgram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid andsalts and esters thereof,N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan),4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol,2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol,3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propinyl butyl carbamate,chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterialperfumes, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil,farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate,glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylicacid-N-alkylamides such as, for example, salicylic acid-n-octyl amide orsalicylic acid-n-decyl amide.

Enzyme Inhibitors

Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors.Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethylcitrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and,in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). Esterase inhibitorsinhibit enzyme activity and thus reduce odor formation. Other esteraseinhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for example,lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterolsulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for exampleglutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethylester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethylester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylicacids and esters thereof, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaricacid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

Odor Absorbers

Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are capable of absorbingand largely retaining the odor-forming compounds. They reduce thepartial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce therate at which they spread. An important requirement in this regard isthat perfumes must remain unimpaired. Odor absorbers are not activeagainst bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt ofricinoleic acid or special perfumes of largely neutral odor known to theexpert as “fixateurs” such as, for example, extracts of ladanum orstyrax or certain abietic acid derivatives as their principal component.Odor maskers are perfumes or perfume oils which, besides theirodor-masking function, impart their particular perfume note to thedeodorants. Suitable perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of naturaland synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances include the extracts ofblossoms, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs andgrasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials,for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical syntheticperfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone,alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the estertype are benzyl acetate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalylacetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include,for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketonesare the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol,citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethylalcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes andbalsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfumecompounds which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance. Othersuitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatilitywhich are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil,camomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil,lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanumoil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably usedeither individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Antiperspirants

Antiperspirants reduce perspiration and thus counteract underarm wetnessand body odor by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands.Aqueous or water-free antiperspirant formulations typically contain thefollowing ingredients:

-   -   astringent active principles,    -   oil components,    -   nonionic emulsifiers,    -   co-emulsifiers,    -   consistency factors,    -   auxiliaries in the form of, for example, thickeners or        complexing agents and/or    -   non-aqueous solvents such as, for example, ethanol, propylene        glycol and/or glycerol.

Suitable astringent active principles of antiperspirants are, above all,salts of aluminium, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents ofthis type are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate,aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate and complexcompounds thereof, for example with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminiumhydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconiumtrichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminiumzirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for examplewith amino acids, such as glycine. Oil-soluble and water-solubleauxiliaries typically encountered in antiperspirants may also be presentin relatively small amounts. Oil-soluble auxiliaries such as theseinclude, for example,

-   -   inflammation-inhibiting, skin-protecting or pleasant-smelling        essential oils,    -   synthetic skin-protecting agents and/or    -   oil-soluble perfume oils.

Typical water-soluble additives are, for example, preservatives,water-soluble perfumes, pH adjusters, for example buffer mixtures,water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble natural or syntheticpolymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose,polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

Film Formers

Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystallinechitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acidseries, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid andsalts thereof and similar compounds.

Antidandruff Agents

Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin(1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinonemonoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®(4-acetyl-1-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl)r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl}-piperazine,ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfurpolyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate,sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination withhexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Nasalt, Lamepon® UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zincpyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithionemagnesium sulfate.

Swelling Agents

Suitable swelling agents for aqueous phases are montmorillonites, clayminerals, Pemulen and alkyl-modified Carbopol types (Goodrich). Othersuitable polymers and swelling agents can be found in R. Lochhead'sreview in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Insect Repellents

Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diolor Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate.

Self-Tanning Agents and Depigmenting Agents

A suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable tyrosineinhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are used indepigmenting agents are, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, koji acid,coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Hydrotropes

In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol orpolyols, may be used to improve flow behavior. Suitable polyolspreferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxylgroups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especiallyamino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

-   -   glycerol;    -   alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene        glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight        of 100 to 1000 dalton;    -   technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of        self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technical        diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by        weight;    -   methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,        trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and        dipentaerythritol;    -   lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8        carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl        glucoside;    -   sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example        sorbitol or mannitol, >sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms,        for example glucose or sucrose;    -   amino sugars, for example glucamine;    -   dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or        2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.        Preservatives

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehydesolution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexesknown under the name of Surfacine® and the other classes of compoundslisted in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung(“Cosmetics Directive”).

Perfume Oils and Aromas

Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes.Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose,jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli,petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel(bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom,costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood,cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage,thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins andbalsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animalraw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typicalsynthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde,ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds ofthe ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate,p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzylcarbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate,styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example,benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linearalkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal,lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones,α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols areanethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool,phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include theterpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures ofdifferent perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeableperfume. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relativelylow volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples aresage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leafoil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil,galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferablyused either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Suitable aromas are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, aniseedoil, Japanese anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, citrusoil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

Dyes

Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved forcosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication“Kosmetische Färbemittel” of the Farbstoffkommission der DeutschenForschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106.Examples include cochineal red A (C.I. 16255), patent blue V (C.I.42051), indigotin (C.I. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), quinolineyellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891), indanthrene blueRS(C.I. 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be presentas a luminescent dye. These dyes are normally used in concentrations of0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives may be from 1to 50% by weight and is preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, based on theparticular preparations. The preparations may be produced by standardhot or cold processes and are preferably produced by the phase inversiontemperature method.

EXAMPLES

In the following tests, an extract of Vaccinium myrtyllus with an activesubstance content of 25% by weight (from Cognis) was used as the testsubstance.

A. Activity Against Free Radicals

The effectiveness of the test substances against free radicals wastested by various chemical and biochemical methods:

-   Method A A first test was carried out using diphenylpicrylhydrazyl    (DPPH°) which is a relatively stable radical that forms a    purple-colored solution. The optical density (DO) at 513 nm was    determined.-   Method B Hydroxyl radicals were released from hydrogen peroxide in    the presence of iron(II) ions and EDTA and were used to oxidize    deoxyribose. The oxidation product forms a pink-colored compound    with thiobarbituric acid. Its concentration corresponds to the    optical density at 532 nm. A test was conducted to determine whether    less deoxyribose is oxidized, i.e. whether fewer free radicals are    released, in the presence of the test products.-   Method C The test just described was conducted in the absence of    EDTA to determine the suitability of the test substances for forming    inactive iron complexes.-   Method D Xanthine oxidase is an enzyme which is released through    oxidative stress and catabolizes the decomposition of the purine    bases adenine and guanine into uronic acid and superoxide anions.    The superoxide anions dismute into hydrogen peroxide and oxygen    either spontaneously or in the presence of Superoxid Dismutase. The    quantity of superoxide anion can be determined by NBT reduction via    the optical density at 490 nm. A test was conducted to determine    whether fewer superoxide anions are generated or more anions are    destroyed in the presence of the test substances.

The results are set out in Table 1 and represent the EC50 values in %(w/v). TABLE 1 Effect against free radicals (figures = % -rel.) MethodEx. Test product A B C D 1 Vaccinium extract 0.0014 0.252 0.91 0.6  C1Tocopherol 0.0067 n.d. n.d. No effect C2 Ascorbic acid 0.0013 0.261 0.9 0.591 C3 BHT* 0.0500 n.d. n.d. No effect*BHT = butylhydroxytoluene

The results suggest that the Vaccinium myrtyllus extract hasanti-oxidative activity which is far superior to that of tocopherol andBHT and comparable with that of vitamin C. In the absence of EDTA, thetest substance has a particularly high potential for quenching hydroxylions which shows that it forms stable iron complexes. Finally, it has ahigh potential for preventing the reduction of BT by superoxide anions.

B. Protection of Cells Against UVA Radiation

The object of the following in vitro tests was to determine whethervaccinium extract would protect human fibroblasts against oxidativestress and, more particularly, against the effects of UVA rays. UVA wasselected as the stress factor because the rays penetrate into the dermiswhere they lead above all to lipoperoxidation of the cytoplasmmembranes. The lipoperoxides formed are split into malonaldialdehydes(MDA) which are responsible for the crosslinking of many biomoleculessuch as, for example, proteins (enzyme inhibition) or nuclein bases(mutagenesis). To carry out the test, a fibroblast culture was mixedwith foetal calf serum and, 2 days later, inoculated with the testsubstances. After incubation for 36 h at 37° C./5% by vol. CO₂, thenutrient medium was replaced by an electrolyte solution and thefibroblasts were damaged by a predetermined dose of UVA (3-15 J/cm²).After the exposure, the quantity of MDA formed was determined in thesupernatant solution by reaction with thiobarbituric acid while thecontent of proteins in the cell homogenizate was determined byBradford's method. The results are set out in Table 2 as %-rel againstthe standard. Table 2 shows the mean value of two series of measurementsinvolving triple determination. TABLE 2 Activity against UVA rays(figures = % -rel.) Conc. Ex. Test product % w/v MDA released Cellproteins C4 Control without UVA 0 100 C5 Control with UVA 100 101 2Vaccinium extract 0.005 90 94

The results show that the vaccinium extract has a lastingly positiveeffect in combating oxidative stress without damaging the fibroblasts.

C. Protecting cells against UVB radiation

The function of this test was to show that vaccinium extracts haveanti-inflammatory properties for human keratinocytes. UVB was selectedas the stress factor because the rays produce cutaneous inflammation(erythemas, oedemas) by activating enzymes that release arachidonicacid, such as phospholipase A2 (PLA2) for example. This results not onlyin damage to the membranes, but also in the formation of inflammatorysubstances, such as prostaglandins of the PGE2 type for example. Theinfluence of UVB rays on keratinocytes was determined in vitro throughthe release of cytoplasmatic enzymes, such as LDH (lactatedehydrogenase) for example, which runs parallel to the cell damage andthe formation of PGE2. To carry out the test, a fibroblast culture wasmixed with foetal calf serum and inoculated with the test substances 2days later. After incubation for 36 h at 37° C. and a CO₂ level of 5% byvol., the nutrient medium was replaced by an electrolyte solution andthe fibroblasts were damaged with a particular dose of UVB (50 mJ/cm²).The quantity of keratinocytes was determined after trypsination via acell counter while the LDH concentration was enzymatically determined.The results are set out in Table 3 which shows the activity in %-rel.against a standard as the mean value of two test series involving doubledetermination. TABLE 3 Effect against UVB rays (figures - % -rel.) Conc.LDH PGE2 Ex. Test product % w/v Cell DNA released released V6 Controlwithout UVB 100 0 0 C7 Control with UVB 31 100 100 3 Vaccinium extract0.005 57 88 72

The results show that the test substances significantly reduce theharmful effects of UVB rays and, in particular, reduce the release ofLDH and PGE2.

D. Effectiveness Against Proteases

In the event of inflammation, skin proteases, for example collagenase,are released from the polymorphonuclear neutrophilic granulocytes ormacrophages. A similar process takes place in the skin of elderly peopleon exposure to UV rays. As already mentioned, the proteases—also knownas matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) through their content of central zincions—catalyze the fragmentation of connective tissue proteins. The testsubstances were tested for collagenase inhibition using bacterialcollagenase (clostridium histolyticum) on gelatin marked withfluorochromium (FITA, Calbiochem) as a natural nutrient medium. Theincubation time was 60 mins. at 20° C.; the hydrolysis of the substratewas monitored by fluorescence at 393 nm (excitation at 328 nm). Theresults are set out in Table 4 as the collagenase inhibition in %. TABLE4 Collagenase inhibition (figures = % -rel.) Concentration % (w/v) Ex.Test product 0.005 0.01 0.05 4 Vaccinium extract 12 44 71

The results show that the vaccinium extract has a significant inhibitingeffect depending on concentration.

E. Inhibition of Human MMP-1 Synthesis

The ability of vaccinium extract to reduce the toxic effect of UVA rayswas investigated. The in vitro system used was a culture of dermalfibroblasts. The release of MMP-1 from those fibroblasts under theinfluence of UV radiation was determined. To carry out the test, afibroblast culture was prepared using foetal calf serum and, 2 dayslater, was inoculated with the test substances. After incubation for 36h at 37° C. and a CO₂ level of 5% by volume, the nutrient medium wasreplaced by an electrolyte solution and the fibroblasts were damaged bya predetermined dose of UVB radiation (50 mJ/cm²). The MMPs weredetermined using a kit of the type marketed by Amersham under the nameof RPN2610. The results are set out in Table 5. The results areexpressed as the quantity of MMPs in ng/ml from a test series withtriple determination. TABLE 5 MMP Inhibition (figures = % -rel.) MMPsExample Test product Conc.(% w/v) Without UVA With UVA C8 Control 49 ± 9199 ± 25 5 Vaccinium 0.005 38 ± 7 161 ± 22 extract

The results show that vaccinium extract lastingly reduces the release ofMMP on exposure to UVA radiation.

F. Anti-Inflammatory Activity

In the course of cutaneous inflammation, leucocytes, such as thepolymorphonuclear neutrophilic granulocytes (PMNs) for example, arestimulated by peptides, such as cytokinins for example, to emitmessenger substances, such as leucotriene for example, which arereleased from activated or necrotic cells in the dermis. These activatedPMNs release not only pro-inflammatory cytokinins, leucotrienes andproteases, but also ROS, such as superoxides and hypochlorite anions forexample, of which the function is to destroy penetrated pathogenic germsor fungi. This activity of the PMNs during the inflammation is known asso-called respiratory burst and can lead to additional damage in thetissue. To investigate to what extent the test extracts can prevent orreduce the respiratory burst, a cell line of human leukaemicgranulocytes of these PMNs was incubated together with the testsubstances at 37° C. and 5% by vol. CO₂. After the respiratory burst hadbeen initiated by addition of a yeast extract (zymosan) to the cellsolution, the release of superoxide anions was determined through theirreaction with luminol. The results are set out in Table 6 which showsthe cell counts and the quantity of ROS released in %-rel to thestandard as the mean value of a series of measurements involving tripledetermination. TABLE 5 Anti-inflammatory activity Conc. Ex. Test product(% w/v) Cell counts ROS released C9 Control 0 100 100 6 Vacciniumextract 0.001 102 ± 1 35 ± 25

The results show that vaccinium extract has a strong inhibitinginfluence on the respiratory burst of human granulocytes but does notdamage the granulocytes.

G. Regenerative and Growth-Stimulating Activity

After incubation for 72 h in a nutrient solution, fibroblasts formsaturated monolayers, the fibroblasts cease their activity and growthstops. The cell fuel adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which is essentiallyformed in the mitochondria, is needed to activate certain enzymes which,for example, control the cell skeleton, the ionic channels, the uptakeof nutrients and a large number of other important biological processes.The protein content of the cells was determined by Bradford's method[cf. Anal. Biochem. 72, 248-254 (1977)]. Glutathione (GSH) is a specialprotein which is produced by the cells for protection against oxidativestress and environmental poisons, more particularly against heavymetals. The three amino acids involved in the reduced form of GSH arelinked to special cytoplasmatic enzymes which need ATP for activation.An increase in the GSH concentration leads to an increase in theglutatione-S-transferase activity, a detoxifying enzyme. The GHS contentwas determined by Hissin's method [cf. Anal. Biochem. 74, 214-226(1977]. The growth-stimulating effect of vaccinium extract was tested onhuman fibroblasts. In a first series of tests, the fibroblasts wereincubated in a nutrient medium for 1 day at 37° C./5% by vol. CO₂, thenutrient medium was replaced by a medium which contained the testsubstance and the fibroblasts were incubated for another 3 days at 37°C. The protein content of the cells and the ATP concentration were thendetermined. The survival-stimulating effect was determined in a secondseries of tests. To this end, the fibroblasts were incubated first for 3days at 37° C. in a nutrient solution and then for 3 days at the sametemperature in a test solution. The protein content of the cells and theGSH concentration were then determined. The results are set out in Table7 in %-rel. against a blank sample and represent the results of 3 seriesof measurements involving triple determination. TABLE 7 Growth- andsurvival-stimulating effect (figures = % -rel.) Conc. Test series 1 Testseries 2 Ex. Test Product % w/v Proteins ATP Proteins GSH C10 Blank 0100 100 100 100 7 Vaccinium extract 0.005 105 111 104 108

The results show that the test substances stimulate the metabolism inregard to growth and protection of the fibroblasts.

H. Effectiveness Against Ageing of the Skin

The enzyme glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G6PDH) catalyzes the firststep of the “pentose shunt” in which a major constituent of DNA, namelydeoxyribose, is formed. In this first step, glucose-6-phosphate (G6P) isconverted by G6PDH into 6-phosphatogluconate (6PG). At the same time,the co-enzyme needed for this conversion, NADP, is reduced to NADPH2which in turn is capable of catalyzing a number of other biologicalreactions such as, for example, the recycling of glutathione or thesynthesis of lipids. Reduced glutathione protects many enzymes having SHgroups and cells against oxidative stress, such as UV exposure forexample. The G6PDH content is thus an important parameter for cellprotection and skin renewal. The G6PDH activity was determined in vitroon human fibroblasts by Okada's enzymatic method; the DNA content wasdetermined by Desaulniers' method. The results are set out in Table 8which shows the results of three series of measurements involving tripledetermination in %-rel against a blank. TABLE 8 Stimulation of G6PGHactivity (figures = % -rel.) Conc. Test series 1 Test series 2 Ex. TestProduct % w/v Proteins ATP Proteins GSH C11 Blank 0 100 100 100 100 8Vaccinium extract 0.005 104 108  11 109I. Immunostimulation

Immunostimulation is the umbrella term for biochemical processes inwhich messenger substances, such as β-glucans for example, stimulate thebody's own defences, for example for binding and secreting toxins andaccelerating the renewal of skin cells. It is known that organisms losethis ability with increasing age. Immunostimulation can be observed invitro on human leucocytes activated beforehand with a yeast extract(zymosan) [cf. Capsoni et al., Int. J. Immunopharm. 10(2), 121-133(1998)]. A culture of polymorphonuclear neutrophilic granulocytes (PMNs)was incubated with the vaccinium extract for 24 h at 37° C./5% by vol.CO₂. The addition of zymosan initiated the respiratory burst. After 30mins, the PMN count was determined with an automatic cell counter whilethe quantity of reactive oxygen species (ROS) released in thesupernatant liquid was spectroscopically determined with luminol. Theresults are set out in Table 9 as %-rel against the standard. Table 9shows the mean value of two series of measurements involving tripledetermination. TABLE 9 Immunostimulation (figures in % rel.) Conc. Ex.Test product % w/v No. of leucocytes ROS released V12 Blank 0 100 100 9Vaccinium extract 0.005 88 91

The results show that the test substances stimulate the immune systemand lastingly strengthen the body's own defences, more particularly theskin cells.

J. Activation of Lipolysis

Lipolysis is understood to be the removal of triglycerides from theadipocytes. Crucial importance attaches to the triglyceride lipase whichconverts the glycerides into free fatty acids and glycerol which arethen carried away via the circulation system. The fatty acids can thenbe burnt, for example, in the muscle cells and hence serve as energystores. To investigate lipolytic activity, adipocytes were isolated fromhuman subcutaneous tissue [cf. Rodbell, J. Biol. Chem. 239(2), 375-380(1964)]. The corresponding cultures were inoculated with the testsubstances and incubated for 90 mins. at 37° C. The quantity of glycerolreleased in the supernatant liquid was spectroscopically determined [cf.Carpene et al., J. Pharmacol. (Paris), 12(2), 219-224 (1981)]. Theresults are set out in Table 10 as %-rel. against the standard andrepresent the average value of two series of measurements involvingtriple determination. TABLE 10 Lipolysis (figures in % -rel.) Conc. Ex.Test product % w/v Glycerol released C13 Blank 0 0 10 Vaccinium extract0.005 8

The results show that the test substances stimulate lipolysis and hencecontribute towards accelerating the availability of cell fuel.

Various formulations for skin treatment preparations containingvaccinium extracts are set out in Table 11. TABLE 11 Examples forcosmetic preparations (water, preservative to 100% by weight)Composition (INCI) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Emulgade ® SE 5.0 5.0 4.0 — —5.0 5.0 4.0 — — Glyceryl Sterate (and) Ceteareth 12/20 (and) CetearylAlcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate Eumulgin ® B1 — — 1.0 — — — — 1.0 — —Ceteareth-12 Lameform ® TGI — — — 4.0 — — — — 4.0 — Polyglyceryl-3Isostearate Dehymuls ® PGPH — — — — 4.0 — — — — 4.0 Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate Monomuls ® 90-O 18 — — — 2.0 — — — — 2.0 —Glyceryl Oleate Cetiol ® HE — — — — 2.0 — — — — 2.0 PEG-7 GlycerylCocoate Cetiol ® OE — — — 5.0 6.0 — — — 5.0 6.0 Dicaprylyl EtherCetiol ® PGL — — 3.0 10.0  9.0 — — 3.0 10.0  9.0 Hexyldecanol (and)Hexyldecyl Laurate Cetiol ® SN 3.0 3.0 — — — 3.0 3.0 — — — CetearylIsononanoate Cetiol ® V 3.0 3.0 — — — 3.0 3.0 — — — Decyl OleateMyritol ® 318 — — 3.0 5.0 5.0 — — 3.0 5.0 5.0 Coco Caprylate CaprateBees Wax — — — 7.0 5.0 — — — 7.0 5.0 Nutrilan ® Elastin E20 2.0 — — — —2.0 — — — — Hydrolyzed Elastin Nutrilan ® I-50 — 2.0 — — — — 2.0 — — —Hydrolyzed Collagen Gluadin ® AGP — — 0.5 — — — — 0.5 — — HydrolyzedWheat Gluten Gluadin ® WK — — — 0.5 0.5 — — — 0.5 0.5 Sodium CocoylHydrolyzed Wheat Protein Euperlan ® PK 3000 AM — — — — — — — — — —Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine Arlypon ®F — — — — — — — — — — Laureth-2 Vaccinium extract 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.02.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Hydagen ® CMF 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.01.0 Chitosan Magnesium Sulfate Hepta Hydrate — — — 1.0 1.0 — — — 1.0 1.0Glycerin (86% by weight) 3.0 3.0 5.0 5.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 5.0 3.0Composition (INCI) 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Dehymuls ® PGPH 4.0 3.0— 5.0 — — — — — — Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate Lameform ® TGI2.0 1.0 — — — — — — — — Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate Emulgade ® PL 68/50— — — — 4.0 — — — 3.0 — Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl AlcoholEumulgin ® B2 — — — — — — — 2.0 — — Ceteareth-20 Tegocare ® PS — — 3.0 —— — 4.0 — — — Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate Eumulgin VL 75 — —— — — 3.5 — — 2.5 — Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) LaurylGlucoside (and) Glycerin Bees Wax 3.0 2.0 5.0 2.0 — — — — — — Cutina ®GMS — — — — — 2.0 4.0 — — 4.0 Glyceryl Stearate Lanette ® O — — 2.0 —2.0 4.0 2.0 4.0 4.0 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol Antaron ® V 216 — — — — — 3.0 —— — 2.0 PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer Myritol ® 818 5.0 — 10.0  — 8.0 6.0 6.0— 5.0 5.0 Cocoglycerides Finsolv ® TN — 6.0 — 2.0 — — 3.0 — — 2.0 C12/15Alkyl Benzoate Cetiol ® J 600 7.0 4.0 3.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 — 5.0 4.0Oleyl Erucate Cetiol ® OE 3.0 — 6.0 8.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 4.0 6.0Dicaprylyl Ether Mineral Oil — 4.0 — 4.0 — 2.0 — 1.0 — — Cetiol ® PGL —7.0 3.0 7.0 4.0 — — — 1.0 — Hexadecanol (and) Hexyldecyl LaurateBisabolol 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Vaccinium extract 1.01.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Hydagen ® CMF 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.01.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Chitosan Copherol ® F 1300 0.5 1.0 1.0 2.0 1.0 1.01.0 2.0 0.5 2.0 Tocopherol/Tocopheyl Acetate Neo Heliopan ® Hydro 3.0 —— 3.0 — — 2.0 — 2.0 — Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate NeoHeliopan ® 303 — 5.0 — — — 4.0 5.0 — — 10.0  Octocrylene Neo Heliopan ®BB 1.5 — — 2.0 1.5 — — — 2.0 — Benzophenone-3 Neo Heliopan ® E 1000 5.0— 4.0 — 2.0 2.0 4.0 10.0  — — Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate Neo Heliopan ®AV 4.0 — 4.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 — 10.0  2.0 Octyl Methoxycinnamate Uvinul ®T 150 2.0 4.0 3.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Octyl Triazone Zinc Oxide— 6.0 6.0 — 4.0 — — — — 5.0 Titanium Dioxide — — — — — — — 5.0 — —Glycerin (86% by weight) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0(1, 6) Soft cream,(2, 3, 7, 8) Moisturizing emulsion,(4, 5, 9, 10) Night cream(11) W/O sun protection cream,(12-14) W/O sun protection lotion,(15, 18, 20) O/W sun protection lotion,(16, 17, 19) O/W sun protection cream

1-12 (canceled)
 13. A process for protecting human skin or hair againstthe harmful effects of ageing and environmental toxins comprisingcontacting the skin or hair with a composition containing a Vacciniumplant extract.
 14. The process of claim 13 wherein the Vaccinium plantextract is present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.001to 1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 15. The processof claim 13 wherein the Vaccinium plant extract is present in thecomposition in an amount of from about 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, basedon the weight of the composition.
 16. The process of claim 13 whereinthe Vaccinium plant extract is derived from Vaccinium myrtyllus.
 17. Acosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising from about 0.001 to 1%by weight, based on the weight of the composition, of a Vaccinium plantextract.
 18. The composition of claim 17 wherein the Vaccinium plantextract is present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.005to 0.01% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 19. Thecomposition of claim 17 wherein the Vaccinium plant extract is derivedfrom Vaccinium myrtyllus.